Multi-Acid Clarity and Tone Refinement Peel
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loginSIZE: 10 mL
Rough Skin
Even Skin Tone
↓ Sebum
renew skin cells
Unclog Pores
Layer-controlled superficial peel with keratolytic, pigment-regulating, and anti-inflammatory action.
The Modified Jessner Peel is indicated for skin presenting with uneven pigmentation, congestion, excess oil, dullness, and early signs of photoaging, where factors such as dead cell accumulation, slowed epidermal turnover, and follicular obstruction contribute to visible skin irregularities. Formulated with a synergistic combination of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, this peel accelerates epidermal renewal and loosens corneocyte cohesion, enabling controlled exfoliation while supporting improved pore clarity, smoother texture, and a more even-looking complexion.
The multi-acid system assists in regulating surface oil, promoting removal of accumulated keratin debris, and supporting gradual improvement of superficial pigmentation irregularities. With predictable superficial penetration and the ability to be layered, treatment intensity can be customised according to individual skin needs and therapeutic goals, making it a versatile option within professional protocols focused on skin refinement, clarity, and rejuvenation.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid, a renowned beta hydroxy acid (BHA), stands as a cornerstone in the realm of dermatology and skincare due to its exceptional keratolytic and comedolytic properties. It has a unique ability to penetrate oil-laden hair follicle pores, making it particularly effective in treating acne-prone and oily skin types.
Salicylic acid works by dissolving the type of skin debris that clogs pores and causes acne, namely sebum and dead skin cells. It's a mild anti-bacterial- and a powerful anti-inflammatory agent, which help to reduce the redness and swelling associated with breakouts.
What sets salicylic acid apart in dermatological treatments is its ability to exfoliate the skin not just on the surface, but within the pores themselves. This is due to its oil-soluble nature, allowing it to penetrate deep into the pores and dissolve the keratin plugs that lead to blackheads and whiteheads.
Furthermore, salicylic acid also has the capacity to adjust the pH of the skin, creating an environment less favorable for the growth of acne-causing bacteria. Salicylic acid's efficacy in treating various skin conditions, particularly acne, has been extensively documented in the scientific literature. Studies have consistently shown its ability to reduce acne lesions, both in terms of count and severity. Additionally, salicylic acid is highly recommended for its effectiveness in treating other skin conditions, such as psoriasis and dandruff, due to its ability to soften and remove scales and flakes from the skin.
Physiological Effects of Salicylic Acid
- Keratolytic Action: Salicylic acid is known for its ability to exfoliate the skin by dissolving the intercellular 'glue' that holds skin cells together, helping to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores.
- Comedolytic Effect: It is particularly effective in reducing comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) by unclogging pores and preventing the formation of new comedones.
- Anti-inflammatory Properties: Salicylic acid reduces inflammation, which is beneficial in treating acne and other inflammatory skin conditions.
- Sebum Regulation: It helps to regulate oil production, making it a valuable ingredient for managing oily and acne-prone skin.
- Penetration Enhancement: Due to its lipophilic nature, it can penetrate sebum-filled follicles, making it effective in treating acne located deep within the pores.
Role in Managing Dermatological Conditions
- Acne Vulgaris: Salicylic acid is a cornerstone in acne treatment, effective in both preventing and treating existing acne lesions.
- Psoriasis: Its keratolytic properties make it useful in softening and removing scales associated with psoriasis.
- Warts: Salicylic acid is commonly used in the treatment of warts due to its ability to exfoliate and remove the thickened skin.
- Seborrheic Dermatitis: It helps in managing seborrheic dermatitis by reducing scaling and redness.
- Keratosis Pilaris: Salicylic acid can aid in smoothing the rough bumps associated with keratosis pilaris.
References
- Zaenglein, A. L., Pathy, A. L., Schlosser, B. J., Alikhan, A., Baldwin, H. E., Berson, D. S., & Thiboutot, D. M. (2016). Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 74(5), 945-973.e33.
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 3, 135.
- Zander, E., & Weisman, S. (1992). Treatment of acne vulgaris with salicylic acid pads. Clinical Therapeutics.
- Gupta, A. K., & Nicol, K. (2004). The use of sulfur in dermatology. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.
Lactic acid
Lactic acid, a member of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family, is a well-regarded ingredient in the field of dermatology and skincare for its exfoliating and moisturizing properties. Naturally occurring in sour milk and other fermented products, lactic acid is also produced in the human body and plays a role in various metabolic processes.
In skincare, lactic acid is primarily known for its ability to exfoliate the skin gently. By breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together on the skin's surface, lactic acid helps to promote the shedding of these cells, revealing fresher, brighter skin underneath. This exfoliation process improves skin texture and tone and stimulates cell renewal.
One key advantage of lactic acid over other AHAs is its moisturizing capability. Lactic acid helps increase the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMF), essential for keeping the skin hydrated. Its unique ability to draw moisture into the skin is particularly beneficial for treating dry and dehydrated skin conditions.
Physiological Effects
- Exfoliation: A gentle exfoliant that removes dead skin cells from the skin's surface, promoting smooth skin.
- Moisture Retention: It is a humectant that helps the skin retain moisture, improving hydration and reducing dryness.
- Collagen Stimulation: Lactic acid can stimulate collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin, aiding in skin firmness and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- Skin Brightening: It helps lighten dark spots and even out skin tone, effectively treating hyperpigmentation.
- pH Balancing: Lactic acid can help balance the skin's natural pH levels, which is beneficial for maintaining a healthy skin barrier.
Managing Dermatological Conditions
- Aging Skin: Lactic acid's collagen-stimulating and exfoliating properties make it effective in anti-aging treatments, reducing signs of aging like wrinkles and age spots.
- Acne-Prone Skin: By unclogging pores and removing dead skin cells, lactic acid can help reduce acne breakouts.
- Dry Skin (Xerosis): Its humectant properties are beneficial in hydrating and relieving dry skin.
- Hyperpigmentation: Lactic acid treats hyperpigmentation issues, including melasma and sun damage.
- Keratosis Pilaris: It can help manage keratosis pilaris by exfoliating the excess keratin that blocks hair follicles.
References
- Smith, W. P. (1996). Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology.
- Stiller, M. J., et al. (1996). Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. A double-blind vehicle-controlled clinical trial. Archives of Dermatology.
- Rawlings, A. V., Davies, A., Carlomusto, M., Pillai, S., Zhang, K., Kosturko, R., ... & Watson, D. (1996). Effect of lactic acid isomers on keratinocyte ceramide synthesis, stratum corneum lipid levels and stratum corneum barrier function. Archives of Dermatological Research, 288(7), 383-390.
Citric acid
Citric acid, a naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), is widely used in dermatology for its exfoliating, antioxidant, and skin-brightening properties. As a multifunctional organic acid, citric acid works by weakening the ionic bonds between corneocytes, promoting controlled desquamation and acceleration of epidermal turnover. This process improves surface texture, enhances luminosity, and supports more uniform pigment distribution.
Beyond its keratolytic action, citric acid also plays an important role in regulating skin pH and maintaining an optimal acidic environment that supports barrier integrity and microbial balance. Its antioxidant properties help limit oxidative processes associated with ultraviolet exposure and environmental stressors, which contribute to premature skin aging.
What distinguishes citric acid in professional resurfacing treatments is its dual function as both an exfoliating agent and a chelating compound. By binding metal ions involved in oxidative reactions and melanogenesis pathways, citric acid contributes to improved clarity and brightness. Additionally, controlled exfoliation improves epidermal permeability, allowing for enhanced penetration of co-applied actives and synergistic effects within multi-acid formulations.
The dermatologic benefits of citric acid have been documented in studies evaluating its role in exfoliation, pigmentation modulation, and texture refinement. Through controlled epidermal renewal and antioxidant activity, citric acid supports visible improvements in tone, smoothness, and overall skin radiance.
Physiological Effects
- Keratolytic Action: Citric acid reduces corneocyte cohesion by disrupting ionic bonding within the stratum corneum, promoting controlled desquamation and accelerating epidermal turnover.
- Epidermal Renewal: Through accelerated desquamation of the stratum corneum, citric acid supports epidermal renewal and the replacement of older surface cells with newly formed keratinocytes, improving skin texture and tone uniformity.
- Antioxidant Activity: Citric acid exhibits antioxidant properties that help limit oxidative processes associated with environmental stress and photoaging.
- Chelating Function: As a chelating agent, citric acid binds metal ions such as copper and iron, reducing their role in oxidative reactions and melanogenesis pathways.
- pH Regulation: Citric acid contributes to maintenance of the skin’s acidic environment, supporting barrier integrity and microbial balance.
- Pigment Modulation Support: Through accelerated epidermal turnover and its chelating activity, citric acid assists in improving superficial pigmentation irregularities.
Managing Dermatological Conditions
- Photoaging: Citric acid improves features of photodamaged skin through controlled keratolysis and epidermal renewal, which help remove photodamaged keratinocytes and smooth surface irregularities. Its antioxidant and metal-chelating properties help limit oxidative reactions associated with ultraviolet-induced skin aging.
- Hyperpigmentation & Dyschromia: Citric acid contributes to improvement of uneven pigmentation by accelerating removal of melanin-containing keratinocytes through epidermal turnover. In addition, its ability to chelate copper ions involved in tyrosinase activity supports modulation of melanogenesis pathways.
- Melasma: Within professional peel formulations, citric acid assists in pigment correction by promoting controlled desquamation of pigmented epidermal cells and interfering with enzymatic pathways involved in melanin production.
- Rough & Uneven Texture: Through disruption of corneocyte cohesion and reduction of stratum corneum compaction, citric acid smooths rough skin and refines surface texture associated with epidermal thickening and impaired desquamation.
- Keratosis Pilaris: Citric acid helps soften follicular keratin plugs by promoting controlled exfoliation and improving desquamation within the follicular infundibulum.
- Comedonal Congestion: By normalising corneocyte shedding at the follicular opening and reducing keratin accumulation within pores, citric acid helps limit superficial comedone formation when used in multi-acid resurfacing systems.
References
- Zhou, S., & Sakamoto, K. (2020). Citric acid promoted melanin synthesis in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells but inhibited it in human epidermal melanocytes and HMV-II melanoma cells via the GSK3β/β-catenin signaling pathway. PLOS ONE, 15(12), e0243569.
- Kim, Y. J., Uyama, H., & Kobayashi, S. (2016). Inhibitory effects of organic acids including citric acid on tyrosinase activity. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 64(7), 1563–1569.
- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142.
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Modified Jessner Peel
mode of action
Pigmentation Treatment
LACTIC ACID
- Inhibits tyrosinase activity, reducing melanin synthesis within melanocytes.
- Decreases corneocyte cohesion to promote shedding of melanin-laden keratinocytes.
- Accelerates epidermal turnover, improving pigment dispersion and tone uniformity.
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SALICYLIC ACID
- Reduces follicular and surface keratin obstruction, improving uniformity of exfoliation and overall skin tone.
- Exerts anti-inflammatory effects that help limit inflammation-driven pigmentation.
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CITRIC ACID
- Chelates copper ions required for tyrosinase activity, interfering with the enzymatic processes involved in melanin synthesis and contributing to reduced melanogenesis.
- Promotes epidermal exfoliation and accelerated cellular turnover, facilitating the removal of superficial melanin-containing keratinocytes and supporting a more even skin tone.
- Provides antioxidant activity that helps neutralise reactive oxygen species generated by UV exposure and inflammation, which are known to stimulate melanocyte activity and pigment production.
Photoaging & Fine Lines
LACTIC ACID
- Accelerates epidermal renewal by reducing corneocyte cohesion, promoting removal of compacted surface cells associated with photodamage and improving skin smoothness.
- Stimulates dermal glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis with repeated exposure, supporting improved skin hydration, firmness, and reduction in the appearance of fine lines.
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CITRIC ACID
- Promotes exfoliation and turnover of photodamaged keratinocytes, contributing to improved skin texture, clarity, and surface refinement.
- Provides antioxidant activity that neutralises reactive oxygen species generated by UV exposure, helping to limit oxidative damage that contributes to collagen degradation and premature skin aging.
Inflammation & Acne
SALICYLIC ACID
- Lipophilic penetration into sebaceous follicles allows salicylic acid to dissolve intercellular lipids and promote keratolysis within the follicular canal, helping to clear retained sebum and keratin debris.
- Comedolytic activity reduces microcomedone formation as well as existing blackheads and whiteheads by preventing follicular blockage.
- Anti-inflammatory effects occur through modulation of inflammatory mediator pathways, helping to reduce erythema, swelling, and discomfort associated with inflammatory acne lesions.
- Antimicrobial activity supports reduction of acne-associated bacteria within the follicle, contributing to improved lesion control and skin clarity.
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LACTIC ACID
- Normalises keratinocyte shedding at the follicular opening by reducing corneocyte cohesion, helping to prevent obstruction that contributes to comedone formation and acne development.
- Accelerates epidermal turnover, supporting clearance of follicular debris and improving overall skin smoothness.
Regulate sebum
- Salicylic acid works well to balance sebum levels because it is lipid or oil-soluble. So, rather than remaining on the skin's surface, salicylic acid penetrates deep into sebum-filled pores.